Apple Keyboard (Aluminum) keycap removal

I decided to switch around my new Apple Keyboard to use the Dvorak layout. I didn’t find any resources when I searched, so here are photos and directions. It worked for me but I can’t guarantee your success. Research the cost and availability of replacement parts before attempting.

All of the keys that must be moved to convert the new aluminum keyboard to the Dvorak layout have their scissors arranged this way. The two clips along the top of the keycap hold onto the bars near the top of the scissors. These must be pulled free. Then the lower tabs are released by moving the key toward the upper edge of the keyboard; turning the keyboard face down helps.

I found these easier to remove than the keycaps on the MacBook Pro—I didn’t break any of the scissors this time! Also, the scissors appear to be harder to replace as a result of their stronger design. If you break one, leave a note to help others avoid the same outcome.

Keycap Removal

  1. Slide a thin, non-marring tool such as a fingernail under the top edge of the keycap.
  2. Depress the bottom edge of the keycap.
  3. Rotate the keycap up with increasing pressure until the two top clips are released from the scissor.
  4. Invert the keyboard and jiggle the key to release the lower hinges.

Keycap Replacement

  1. Drop the keycap into place.
  2. Jiggle the key to seat the lower pivots.
  3. Press down with increasing pressure until the top clips click into place.

95 thoughts on “Apple Keyboard (Aluminum) keycap removal

  1. Thanks!! I noticed my right arrow key had become stiff and didn’t feel right today. I was wondering if I got something stuck under it, so I wanted to remove it and see, but when I read your info, I tried just pressing down firmly on the top, and it made a nice click, and now works fine! Apparently the scissors had come out of place somehow. A nice quick fix to a annoying problem I might have just let go on bugging me forever. Thanks for the info!:)

  2. Most keyboards (in the UK at least) have the fixtures for the F and J keys at 90 degrees, presumably to prevent you rearranging the layout. Apple didn’t do this; I bought a UK layout aluminium wired keyboard in late 2008 and rearranged the keys to Dvorak without a problem. I bought another of the same in early 2011 with the intent of changing it to Dvorak, however Apple has now spitefully revised the keyboard to include aforementioned special fixtures for F and J.
    If you are thinking of trying the Dvorak layout be sure to remove the F key first to check if this is the case for you. You can still go ahead but keep in mind the F, U, J and H keys will sit at a very annoying 90-degree angle. Apple’s reputation used to be all about thinking and being different, but this is a sad display of conformity. Thanks a lot Apple.

  3. Folks,

    Bought a used aluminum keyboard. Worked flawlessly for weeks. Then, slowly but
    inevitably, it started getting balky…

    It’s a strange assortment of keys whose scissors are on “sideways”:

    - The skinny little function keys across the top, which are tricky to remove. At least one of the scissor “axles” (on the top and bottom center, for these keys) will likely break. At least that was the case for me. It’s possible a previous owner of the keyboard broke ‘em, though ;-) .

    - At least “F” and “J” (possibly others: I only removed the sticky keys) are rotated so that the “top” of the mechanism is to the right.

    - Left shift has *two* scissors and a metal stabilizer bar running across the *bottom* of the key.

    - Left control also has a stabilizer bar, but it runs across the *top* of the key.

    Happy typing,

    Dave

  4. Awesome! The only thing to add is that if you need to take the smaller keys off the top row of the keyboard to clean them as I did, you will need to pry them up from the left side of the key instead of the top. Other wise, it’s the same procedure for them as well.

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